Veteran winemaker Joel Aiken marches to a different beat from today’s cult style, reverting to an older expression of Napa Valley Cabernet. This one is bone dry, tannic and tightly wound in acids. It will not offer much pleasure now, even after decanting. It needs to be aged, and judging by the intense core of blackberries, cherries and minerals, it will easily negotiate the next 10–15 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H.