Joel Aiken’s Sonoma Mountain bottlings are cut from a bolder piece of cloth than his effort from the Fiddlestix Vineyard, and if that other wine can be counted on to age well, the two from a more northerly clime will not only improve in the bottle but also demand a good deal of patience. This one is nominally the riper of the two yet its light and lively feel and emerging suppleness do not have a whit of excess and it wants a half-decade or so of quiet patience to gain added refinement.